One by one they’re trying to take away our gustatory pleasures.
Salt. Sugar. Fat. Red meat—not just a lot of red meat, but any amount of red meat. According to this Harvard study, any red meat at all increases the chances of dying somewhat.
Of course, we’re all gonna go some time, so in fact our “chances” of dying are 100%. The question is when and how. Most of us who are not profoundly depressed would prefer it be later rather than sooner, and quicker rather than slower. We’d also like to remain in really good health, vigorous and pain-free, until that time comes.
My quarrels with the study are numerous, which is not to say it doesn’t have some validity. The pluses are that the number of subjects is vast and the time-frame long. The negatives are that it relies on self-reports about diet: people were asked to estimate how many times a week they usually ate meat within the past year. That seems pretty shaky to me, although I suppose it’s a very rough guide.
Another problem is that all unprocessed red meat was lumped in together: beef, pork, and lamb. I’ve read that lamb has a different kind of fat than the other meats, and is better for you as a result:
Lamb is not marbled (fat in the meat) as is beef. Over half of the fat in lamb is unsaturated. Only 36% of the fat in lamb is saturated. Most of the unsaturated fat is monounsaturated, commonly found in a healthy Mediterranean-type diet.
Lamb contains the fat that is good for you, consumed directly as part of the essential omega-6 fatty acid arachidonic acid (AA), a liquid unsaturated acid. Lamb is one of the richest sources of conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), part of the omega-6, possessing unique and potent antioxidant activity . CLA cannot be manufactured in the human body. Most of the lamb’s fat is on the outside edges and is easily trimmed.
I don’t eat red meat all that often; I’m probably in the “once or twice a week” group, and it’s a small portion at that. But when I do, it’s often lamb. In that respect I’m probably atypical of American meat-eaters, and I would have liked the researchers to have separated out the different types of meat from each other.
Naturally, meat-eaters are not a random bunch of people. It stands to reason they have other health habits that might make them more prone to earlier death. And in fact, that’s true, according to the study, which tried to separate out these factors through multivariate analysis and found meat to be a separate risk factor.
So, what do you think? Do these results make it harder to settle down with a big juicy steak and down it with gusto? Or does it bring out the rebel in you?
I was planning to end this post with an image of King Henry XIII eating a hunk of meat. Instead, I found a lot of pictures depicting him as gnawing on a leg of poultry, found in this study to be unrelated to an increase in death rates. Hmmm. Then I got distracted by this video of Henry’s kitchens and the food they used to make there:
[NOTE: Here’s the full text of the research.]


